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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred venues. Yet, tucked prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This honour has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest restaurant earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.